1901-2000 FASHION
FIVE DECADES OF 20TH CENTURY FASHION IN DETAIL:
1)
-Edwardian Age: 1901-1909. This decade was the last age to be named for a ruler/monarch, Edward VII who was the successor to Queen Victoria. He was known for womanizing and drinking, and was not conservative like his mother. Perhaps this outlook on life lead to one of the most uncomfortable silhouettes in fashion history, the S Curve. To accomplish this unnatural shape, women would wear Hygenic Corsets which were, ironically, terrible for their bodies. The look this corset gave them was a "Mono Bosom" or “pigeon-breasted” look also referred to as the “pouter pigeon” or "health corset." With the aid of this garment, they achieved an hourglass shape from both the front and the side views. Women would accompany this with a big, curvaceous hairdo they called a Pompadour, after the French royal mistress, Madame Pompadour.
Notable figure: Charles Dana Gibson: Created the “Gibson Girl”. He was an American graphic artist. While the body is still being manipulated in his artwork, he did show some independence coming through. Perhaps this was a reflection to the woman's suffrage/rights movement at the time.
-Art Nouveau: 1890-1905: French Term for “beautiful era”
-La Belle Epoque: The Gilded Age: 1895-1914 was an era known for its splendor and opulence. It was essentially "the swansong of the leisured upperclass."
The fashion of the 20th Century, even more so than any decades/styles before it, has had the quickest turnaround of fashions so far. Essentially, each decade acts and reacts against the previous one in drastic ways by responding almost the direct opposite.
These fast changes can be attributed to industrialization (silhouettes change a lot along with the technology), social changes (women entered the work force and needed more practicality in their clothing), and also because an era of individual designers emerged and put emphasis on artistry rather than on business. The ancient world was looked to for much inspiration during this time as a result.
2)
Due to the focus on the ancient world, by the teens: 1910-1919: the corset is eliminated.
Paul Poiret: was a fashion designer who is often given credit for removing the corset. In doing so, though, he restrained another part of the body: “I freed the bosom, shackled the legs,…” Poiret is credited for creating the hobble skirt and the lampshade look which consisted of a straight blouse that was belted high and flared out from the belted area creating an illusion of a lampshade. This look is said to be inspired by the Ballet Russes movement in Russia.
Sometimes Turban head pans/ feathers were worn in everyday wear. An obvious influence from the orient was present in fashion at the time. This went hand in hand with dramatic changes in the art world too. Cubism really took off as a popular painting style and this was reflecting in the clothing of the time. Also, the fact that suffragism was achieved in 1919 really influenced dress as women started subscribing to more masculine styles.
Orientalism: Imitation or depiction of Eastern cultures…
In addition to the politics of the time, in the 1910s and 1920 women start driving and doing sports as well. Their independence in these areas required an uncorseted and more linear form.
HOW "STYLES" OF A DECADE WORK:
The first years, the earliest look in the beginning of the decade, typically reflects the styles of the previous one. The styles of the middle years of a decade usually become the "classic look for that decade."By the end of the decade we start moving into the next one and repeat the cycle.
3)
1920s: tends to be a student favorite (me included). It was an extremely radical era as women have just gotten the vote. The Flapper emerges and women show their legs for the first time in history. Hair had never been cut so short. Flesh tone stockings had never been worn before either. The stockings/hose allowed women the freedom of shorter skirts because they didn't require garters to hold them up like in the past. Trousers had been strictly a man’s garment but become more and more common. At the same time, an interest in bolder makeup comes into play as well. Interestingly enough, rouge and lip color had not been worn by “nice” girls in the past. Dancing and attending speakeasies were favorite pastimes.
Modernism: includes clean and simple lines creating an androgynous silhouette/a more streamline look. There was certainly a lack of unnecessary adornment with this style.
Clara Bow: was known as the “it” girl of the time and the archetypical flapper. The flapper outfit was centered around straightening out the hips and bust line with a girdle and brassiere. Clothes also had lots of movement so dancing the Charleston was possible. They were usually straight cut but occasionally triangular pieces (the Egyptian triangle shape never really goes out of style) are attached for extra flounce.
A timeless heroine who originated in the 20s was Coco Chanel. She made menswear into clothes. The Chanel suit made out of unrestricting wool. She also originated "the little black dress." She was interested in modernity, neutral colors, and what was practical. This is perhaps a result of her upbringing. She was not from wealthy background. Chanel started off making hats, then created fashions that could appeal to all classes. All of her clothes were elegant and not so expensive. She also revolutionized the idea of fake/costume jewelry.
“Total Look” Idea: Saw the how outfit for what it was in completeness and focused on all aspects. As a result, her clothes have never gone out of style. They have proved themselves timeless and would probably be considered fashionable if worn out on the streets today.
Art Deco/ Art Nouveau were other important elements of the 20s. The streamline look of fashion goes along with architecture. This style is dominated by 1925. The Chrysler Building reflects this and was built between 1928 and 1930.
Another important factor that influence fashion was the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922. Streamline fashions, geometric patterns, the triangle were all implemented in everyday wear.
End of the fun flapper era came with the Stock Market crash in 1929 and the following Great Depression.
4)
In the 1930s fashions became more conservative but also took up a contrast between the previous boyish look by introducing more femininity. The Bias Cutwas used when fabric was cut on an angle allowing it to cling to the curves of the body. This slinky look is often associated as an archetypal 1930s look and is one of my personal favorites. It seems quite elegant.
Clothes in the 1930s begin to look more modern. The hem falls to a “T” length which is right above the ankles and provides for a much more conservative look for the woman.
Madeleine Vionnet was a 1930s designer who worked on the bias cut. She was also against the corset. Her work was inspired by the Ancients, especially by the sculpture, Nike of Samonthrace. She created the popular hankerchief dress, halter neck , and cow neck, all are looks which are quite modern/contemporary today.
As a film major, one of my favorite parts of this period is how people used movies as an escape from real life problems. They needed to look to stars for comfort and to find beauty in life. This is where Hollywood Glamour took off. It was the best therapy of escapism depressed people could get their hands on.
As a result, movie stars become trendsetters. (In the past, it was usually royalty or the elite). Fred Astiare, Ginger Rodgers, and Betty Davis all influcnced the dress of the 30s.
Elsa Schiaparelli was the rival of Coco Chanel- She was born with a lot of money and certainly didn’t have the practical concerns Chanel had. She was linked to many artists and art of the time and her work reflected this. She especially loved to work with surrealists (one of my old time movie genres, so I’m sure the art was equally fascinating).
Schiaparelli created the famous Shoe Hat, incorporated Salvador Dali’s design into her work and even worked with the French Filmmaker and artist Man Ray.
Perhaps her most famous is the Lobster Dress worn by Wallis Simpson in 1937. She married Edward the Duke of Windsor who gave up the crown to be with her.
5)
In the 1940s women started dressing in menswear again. Resources were especially scarce so this was the best option. They wore, wider shoulder lines and shoulder pads which were especially masculine. (This period reminds me of Henry VIII’s interest in broad shoulders and a horizontal presence).
Rosie the Riveter was a cultural icon of the US and was idealized by many women. Women tried their best to be practical and utilize what they had to work with. They wore men inspired pants and cork-soled shoes.
Dior’s came into the mix and created the new look of the “Bar” Suit in 1947. It brought back the feminine silhouette by putting women back into a corset and by using up to 25 Yards of fabric in one skirt!
1)
-Edwardian Age: 1901-1909. This decade was the last age to be named for a ruler/monarch, Edward VII who was the successor to Queen Victoria. He was known for womanizing and drinking, and was not conservative like his mother. Perhaps this outlook on life lead to one of the most uncomfortable silhouettes in fashion history, the S Curve. To accomplish this unnatural shape, women would wear Hygenic Corsets which were, ironically, terrible for their bodies. The look this corset gave them was a "Mono Bosom" or “pigeon-breasted” look also referred to as the “pouter pigeon” or "health corset." With the aid of this garment, they achieved an hourglass shape from both the front and the side views. Women would accompany this with a big, curvaceous hairdo they called a Pompadour, after the French royal mistress, Madame Pompadour.
Notable figure: Charles Dana Gibson: Created the “Gibson Girl”. He was an American graphic artist. While the body is still being manipulated in his artwork, he did show some independence coming through. Perhaps this was a reflection to the woman's suffrage/rights movement at the time.
-Art Nouveau: 1890-1905: French Term for “beautiful era”
-La Belle Epoque: The Gilded Age: 1895-1914 was an era known for its splendor and opulence. It was essentially "the swansong of the leisured upperclass."
The fashion of the 20th Century, even more so than any decades/styles before it, has had the quickest turnaround of fashions so far. Essentially, each decade acts and reacts against the previous one in drastic ways by responding almost the direct opposite.
These fast changes can be attributed to industrialization (silhouettes change a lot along with the technology), social changes (women entered the work force and needed more practicality in their clothing), and also because an era of individual designers emerged and put emphasis on artistry rather than on business. The ancient world was looked to for much inspiration during this time as a result.
2)
Due to the focus on the ancient world, by the teens: 1910-1919: the corset is eliminated.
Paul Poiret: was a fashion designer who is often given credit for removing the corset. In doing so, though, he restrained another part of the body: “I freed the bosom, shackled the legs,…” Poiret is credited for creating the hobble skirt and the lampshade look which consisted of a straight blouse that was belted high and flared out from the belted area creating an illusion of a lampshade. This look is said to be inspired by the Ballet Russes movement in Russia.
Sometimes Turban head pans/ feathers were worn in everyday wear. An obvious influence from the orient was present in fashion at the time. This went hand in hand with dramatic changes in the art world too. Cubism really took off as a popular painting style and this was reflecting in the clothing of the time. Also, the fact that suffragism was achieved in 1919 really influenced dress as women started subscribing to more masculine styles.
Orientalism: Imitation or depiction of Eastern cultures…
In addition to the politics of the time, in the 1910s and 1920 women start driving and doing sports as well. Their independence in these areas required an uncorseted and more linear form.
HOW "STYLES" OF A DECADE WORK:
The first years, the earliest look in the beginning of the decade, typically reflects the styles of the previous one. The styles of the middle years of a decade usually become the "classic look for that decade."By the end of the decade we start moving into the next one and repeat the cycle.
3)
1920s: tends to be a student favorite (me included). It was an extremely radical era as women have just gotten the vote. The Flapper emerges and women show their legs for the first time in history. Hair had never been cut so short. Flesh tone stockings had never been worn before either. The stockings/hose allowed women the freedom of shorter skirts because they didn't require garters to hold them up like in the past. Trousers had been strictly a man’s garment but become more and more common. At the same time, an interest in bolder makeup comes into play as well. Interestingly enough, rouge and lip color had not been worn by “nice” girls in the past. Dancing and attending speakeasies were favorite pastimes.
Modernism: includes clean and simple lines creating an androgynous silhouette/a more streamline look. There was certainly a lack of unnecessary adornment with this style.
Clara Bow: was known as the “it” girl of the time and the archetypical flapper. The flapper outfit was centered around straightening out the hips and bust line with a girdle and brassiere. Clothes also had lots of movement so dancing the Charleston was possible. They were usually straight cut but occasionally triangular pieces (the Egyptian triangle shape never really goes out of style) are attached for extra flounce.
A timeless heroine who originated in the 20s was Coco Chanel. She made menswear into clothes. The Chanel suit made out of unrestricting wool. She also originated "the little black dress." She was interested in modernity, neutral colors, and what was practical. This is perhaps a result of her upbringing. She was not from wealthy background. Chanel started off making hats, then created fashions that could appeal to all classes. All of her clothes were elegant and not so expensive. She also revolutionized the idea of fake/costume jewelry.
“Total Look” Idea: Saw the how outfit for what it was in completeness and focused on all aspects. As a result, her clothes have never gone out of style. They have proved themselves timeless and would probably be considered fashionable if worn out on the streets today.
Art Deco/ Art Nouveau were other important elements of the 20s. The streamline look of fashion goes along with architecture. This style is dominated by 1925. The Chrysler Building reflects this and was built between 1928 and 1930.
Another important factor that influence fashion was the discovery of King Tut’s tomb in 1922. Streamline fashions, geometric patterns, the triangle were all implemented in everyday wear.
End of the fun flapper era came with the Stock Market crash in 1929 and the following Great Depression.
4)
In the 1930s fashions became more conservative but also took up a contrast between the previous boyish look by introducing more femininity. The Bias Cutwas used when fabric was cut on an angle allowing it to cling to the curves of the body. This slinky look is often associated as an archetypal 1930s look and is one of my personal favorites. It seems quite elegant.
Clothes in the 1930s begin to look more modern. The hem falls to a “T” length which is right above the ankles and provides for a much more conservative look for the woman.
Madeleine Vionnet was a 1930s designer who worked on the bias cut. She was also against the corset. Her work was inspired by the Ancients, especially by the sculpture, Nike of Samonthrace. She created the popular hankerchief dress, halter neck , and cow neck, all are looks which are quite modern/contemporary today.
As a film major, one of my favorite parts of this period is how people used movies as an escape from real life problems. They needed to look to stars for comfort and to find beauty in life. This is where Hollywood Glamour took off. It was the best therapy of escapism depressed people could get their hands on.
As a result, movie stars become trendsetters. (In the past, it was usually royalty or the elite). Fred Astiare, Ginger Rodgers, and Betty Davis all influcnced the dress of the 30s.
Elsa Schiaparelli was the rival of Coco Chanel- She was born with a lot of money and certainly didn’t have the practical concerns Chanel had. She was linked to many artists and art of the time and her work reflected this. She especially loved to work with surrealists (one of my old time movie genres, so I’m sure the art was equally fascinating).
Schiaparelli created the famous Shoe Hat, incorporated Salvador Dali’s design into her work and even worked with the French Filmmaker and artist Man Ray.
Perhaps her most famous is the Lobster Dress worn by Wallis Simpson in 1937. She married Edward the Duke of Windsor who gave up the crown to be with her.
5)
In the 1940s women started dressing in menswear again. Resources were especially scarce so this was the best option. They wore, wider shoulder lines and shoulder pads which were especially masculine. (This period reminds me of Henry VIII’s interest in broad shoulders and a horizontal presence).
Rosie the Riveter was a cultural icon of the US and was idealized by many women. Women tried their best to be practical and utilize what they had to work with. They wore men inspired pants and cork-soled shoes.
Dior’s came into the mix and created the new look of the “Bar” Suit in 1947. It brought back the feminine silhouette by putting women back into a corset and by using up to 25 Yards of fabric in one skirt!
1900s Edwardian S-Curve
The green dress in the front has the typical S-Curve, hourglass look of the women's garments at the time of King Edward VII (the first decade of the 20th Century). Notice how tiny and cinched in at the waist this garment is. Not only does it look painful, but I can agree that it looks harmful to one's health!!
FM
FM
1910s
In this example of fashion from the 1910s, the corset has evidently been removed. Perhaps a transitional year, the legs are not shackled in the Paul Poiret style. Nevertheless, a element of Orientalism is obvious. The pattern reminds me of the one on my samurai sword bag. FM
MORE FASHIONS AND SILHOUETTES
OF THE 20TH CENTURY
1970s Inspired
The 1970s dress (above on the left), by Genny, is quite similar to the costumes used in the Harry Potter movies (right) for the Beauxbatons Academy of Magic school girls. Its synthetic jersey material makes it appear light, breathable, and very fluid in movement. Though the materials differ, the biggest difference in the garments is perhaps that the one on the left was meant as an evening dress, and the one on the right is intended as a school uniform. This speaks to the freedom and "wearability" of the garments of the 1970s, though. Elizabethan farthingales or Victorian corsets and crinolines would likely not be used as inspiration for movie costumes as "modern" or even "timeless" school girl uniforms.
NOTE: In the Harry Potter picture, the mannequin to the far right represents the steps of costuming called draping and cutting. There also appears to be hat mold on the bottom left. This reminds exhibit viewers of the hard work that goes into making costumes and even garments for everyday wear like the Genny dress.
NOTE: In the Harry Potter picture, the mannequin to the far right represents the steps of costuming called draping and cutting. There also appears to be hat mold on the bottom left. This reminds exhibit viewers of the hard work that goes into making costumes and even garments for everyday wear like the Genny dress.