1715-1901 FASHION
THE ROCOCO PERIOD (1715-1775)
The Rococo period was centered around wealthy aristocracy who were interested in trysts.
Louis XV transitioned style from the heaviness and grandeur in fashion, furniture, and architecture to a lightened, more feminine scrolling approach. The airy Mantua gowns of the Restoration period (the Windsor Beauties paintings) resurface and are quite suitable for the "trist environment."
A woman named Madame de Pompadour was the clear cut trendsetter of the time. She served as head mistress to Louis XV from 1745-1750 and afterwards remained a close friend and confidante. She was given many royal amenities and had a lot of say in court affairs (She eventually was in charge of selecting Louis XV's new mistresses).
Garment elements she required were the stomacher, a removable torso piece that could be worn with other outfits, an overgown and underskirt that could also be changed, a pushed up bust line (sometime to the point where you could see most of the bosom), and what came to be known as the Pompadour hairstyle which was a fluffed up hairdo with a soft bun. (We learned in our class discussion that a modern replication of this style was used in the John Travolta movie, Saturday Night Live, a 1950s hit).
Along with the lighthearted, playful, trists and affairs, the colors of fabrics lightened up quite a bit. Even corsets became decorative and more feminine. The Elizabethan farthingale transitions into the even more dramatic, panier which was quite wide from the front and narrow from the side. There were all different kinds of paniers, and underwire structures continued to be used to shape them. Paniers could be 8 ft. wide, and doors and furniture were created to accomodate them. During this period, double front doors were often implemented in households. Men and women both put white or periwinkle powder in their hair to lighten it up. This helped portray the fantasy/pastel effect that this period is known for. Brocades/ damasks, and other embroidered work came into play as well. Unique, curved heels similar to Louis heels were worn by the most fashionable people. The backs of dresses were often pleated in a loose, mini cape fashion (called Watteau Backs because he painted quite a few), and were fitted in the front.
In 1774, Louis XVI became King of France and his wife, Marie Antoinette became Queen and the new trendsetter. With her style, hair gets even bigger. Many flowers adorned the head and scratching sticks became necessary because these hairstyles would often trap bugs and vermin.
During this time in fashion, referred to as NEOCLASSICAL, Paniers and Ancient Greek looks could often coincide . Marie Antoinette enjoyed playing the country/rural woman and was occasionally painted in more natural Greek looks instead of in Paniers.
Toile de Jouy fabrics came from the Rococo period and were extremely popular. They can be oriental or floral in nature and often depict Rococo figures mid-trist.Thomas Gainsbourough was a painter who was influenced by the earlier Van Dyck. Gainsborough's paintings of this period are quite lovely and we had the honor to see some of them on our museum tours. (See Mr. and Mrs. Andrews below).
Louis XV transitioned style from the heaviness and grandeur in fashion, furniture, and architecture to a lightened, more feminine scrolling approach. The airy Mantua gowns of the Restoration period (the Windsor Beauties paintings) resurface and are quite suitable for the "trist environment."
A woman named Madame de Pompadour was the clear cut trendsetter of the time. She served as head mistress to Louis XV from 1745-1750 and afterwards remained a close friend and confidante. She was given many royal amenities and had a lot of say in court affairs (She eventually was in charge of selecting Louis XV's new mistresses).
Garment elements she required were the stomacher, a removable torso piece that could be worn with other outfits, an overgown and underskirt that could also be changed, a pushed up bust line (sometime to the point where you could see most of the bosom), and what came to be known as the Pompadour hairstyle which was a fluffed up hairdo with a soft bun. (We learned in our class discussion that a modern replication of this style was used in the John Travolta movie, Saturday Night Live, a 1950s hit).
Along with the lighthearted, playful, trists and affairs, the colors of fabrics lightened up quite a bit. Even corsets became decorative and more feminine. The Elizabethan farthingale transitions into the even more dramatic, panier which was quite wide from the front and narrow from the side. There were all different kinds of paniers, and underwire structures continued to be used to shape them. Paniers could be 8 ft. wide, and doors and furniture were created to accomodate them. During this period, double front doors were often implemented in households. Men and women both put white or periwinkle powder in their hair to lighten it up. This helped portray the fantasy/pastel effect that this period is known for. Brocades/ damasks, and other embroidered work came into play as well. Unique, curved heels similar to Louis heels were worn by the most fashionable people. The backs of dresses were often pleated in a loose, mini cape fashion (called Watteau Backs because he painted quite a few), and were fitted in the front.
In 1774, Louis XVI became King of France and his wife, Marie Antoinette became Queen and the new trendsetter. With her style, hair gets even bigger. Many flowers adorned the head and scratching sticks became necessary because these hairstyles would often trap bugs and vermin.
During this time in fashion, referred to as NEOCLASSICAL, Paniers and Ancient Greek looks could often coincide . Marie Antoinette enjoyed playing the country/rural woman and was occasionally painted in more natural Greek looks instead of in Paniers.
Toile de Jouy fabrics came from the Rococo period and were extremely popular. They can be oriental or floral in nature and often depict Rococo figures mid-trist.Thomas Gainsbourough was a painter who was influenced by the earlier Van Dyck. Gainsborough's paintings of this period are quite lovely and we had the honor to see some of them on our museum tours. (See Mr. and Mrs. Andrews below).
The Trendsetters:
THE EMPIRE PERIOD (1790-1820)
THE VICTORIAN PERIOD (1837-1901)
Queen Victoria comes to the throne 1837 thus starting the Victorian Period in fashion which lasted from 1837 to 1901.
Within this, several sub periods are classified:
-ROMANTIC PERIOD: From 1815-1848 fashion really looked back to Medieval times. There was a preference towards rule breaking and much of the logicality in design was done away with. This resulted in some rather odd and uncomfortable proportions for the body.
With Romanticism came a filling out of woman’s skirt and in turn, more corseting of the body.
-CRINOLINE PERIOD: From 1840 to 1868 this period reflected the Industrial Revolution in the 18th and 19th Centuries. The Victorian Era was in fact the height of the Industrial Revolution. With the new technologies, there was a newfound rise in social status among many people who could now afford to wear the latest fashions.
Though this period was quite revolutionary, there tends to be a modern reaction against it. Our class discussed how family oriented Queen Victoria was, and her beliefs in home, the family element, as being most important aspects of life go against more modern ideals of man and woman as equals in both the domestic and societal sphere.
A little bit about the Queen: She was only 4’11’’ (dresses we saw of hers or that were modeled in her size were tiny!!). She was completely devoted to her husband Albert who was really invested in the Industrial Revolution, science, and design. Because of the Industrial Revolution, women could now afford to buy one dress for getting married in. They used to just get married in their best dress. Victoria was one of the first women to start the white wedding dress tradition. Hers had beautiful orange blossoms all over it. After "Dear Albert" died in 1861, however, the Queen never went out of mourning. She wore black the rest of her life and the stiffness of her dress was reflected nationwide.
Nevertheless, because of the duties of the women in the household, women would change outfits as much as 7 times in a day for different errands/chores/events. The concept of women always having the right thing to wear for each occasion stayed around through the 1950s).
Though silhouettes changed often (sometimes several times within a decade), radical advances in fashion were being made. Amelia Bloomer was first woman to wear pants. Her impact is still echoing today. I thought it was important to keep her in mind when giving credit to Stella McCartney for creating her recent "Jumpsuit Dress" for the red carpet. Though it was quite bold, Amelia Bloomer definitely led the charge.
-THE BUSTLE PERIOD: 1868-1890
Charles Frederick Worth is known as the very first fashion designer. Liked to show himself as an artist instead of just making clothes. The bustle can be attributed to his vision. He took the wide Panier sides and moved them to the rear end instead. He also had much to do with the ruffle trend which became huge in the late 1870s and 1880s.
James Tissot is another notable figure of the age. His paintings focused on the artistry and chicness of clothing and were very much like the Vogue fashion magazines of the time.
Finally, the Arts and Crafts Movement is an important discussion piece concerning this period. It was a pretty bold reaction to the Industrial Revolution.
Within this, several sub periods are classified:
-ROMANTIC PERIOD: From 1815-1848 fashion really looked back to Medieval times. There was a preference towards rule breaking and much of the logicality in design was done away with. This resulted in some rather odd and uncomfortable proportions for the body.
With Romanticism came a filling out of woman’s skirt and in turn, more corseting of the body.
-CRINOLINE PERIOD: From 1840 to 1868 this period reflected the Industrial Revolution in the 18th and 19th Centuries. The Victorian Era was in fact the height of the Industrial Revolution. With the new technologies, there was a newfound rise in social status among many people who could now afford to wear the latest fashions.
Though this period was quite revolutionary, there tends to be a modern reaction against it. Our class discussed how family oriented Queen Victoria was, and her beliefs in home, the family element, as being most important aspects of life go against more modern ideals of man and woman as equals in both the domestic and societal sphere.
A little bit about the Queen: She was only 4’11’’ (dresses we saw of hers or that were modeled in her size were tiny!!). She was completely devoted to her husband Albert who was really invested in the Industrial Revolution, science, and design. Because of the Industrial Revolution, women could now afford to buy one dress for getting married in. They used to just get married in their best dress. Victoria was one of the first women to start the white wedding dress tradition. Hers had beautiful orange blossoms all over it. After "Dear Albert" died in 1861, however, the Queen never went out of mourning. She wore black the rest of her life and the stiffness of her dress was reflected nationwide.
Nevertheless, because of the duties of the women in the household, women would change outfits as much as 7 times in a day for different errands/chores/events. The concept of women always having the right thing to wear for each occasion stayed around through the 1950s).
Though silhouettes changed often (sometimes several times within a decade), radical advances in fashion were being made. Amelia Bloomer was first woman to wear pants. Her impact is still echoing today. I thought it was important to keep her in mind when giving credit to Stella McCartney for creating her recent "Jumpsuit Dress" for the red carpet. Though it was quite bold, Amelia Bloomer definitely led the charge.
-THE BUSTLE PERIOD: 1868-1890
Charles Frederick Worth is known as the very first fashion designer. Liked to show himself as an artist instead of just making clothes. The bustle can be attributed to his vision. He took the wide Panier sides and moved them to the rear end instead. He also had much to do with the ruffle trend which became huge in the late 1870s and 1880s.
James Tissot is another notable figure of the age. His paintings focused on the artistry and chicness of clothing and were very much like the Vogue fashion magazines of the time.
Finally, the Arts and Crafts Movement is an important discussion piece concerning this period. It was a pretty bold reaction to the Industrial Revolution.
The 1890s made use of three silhouettes. First a linear shape reminiscent of the 1880s style was worn, then the dresses were nipped in at the waist w/ puffy "Leg-O-Mutton" sleeves and a triangular shape. Finally they returned to a more linear shape again.