1550-1715 FASHION
MANNERIST/ELIZABETHAN, EARLY & LATE (1550-1600)
TRENDSETTERS: HENRY VIII AND ELIZABETH I
More Mannerist/Elizabethan Styles
The Gentleman on the left wears garments much like those of Henry VIII, with the exception of an Elizabethan neck ruff. The Gentleman on the right, said to be a favorite of Queen Elizabeth, wears a different type of ruff, and brooches of jewels (pearls) attached to his dagged sleeves. Pearls were especially in fashion during Elizabeth I's reign.His sleeves exhibit a later form of dagging as the chemise is evident, but not actually pulled through the outer garment. His low waist is reminiscent of Queen Elizabeth's "wasp waist" sensibilities as well.
THE BAROQUE PERIOD (1600-1715)
BREAKDOWN OF THE BAROQUE PERIOD:
-1600-1625: costume stayed Elizabethan
-Cavalier: 1625-1650
-Restoration: 1650-1680
-Late Baroque: 1680-1715
The Baroque period was influenced by Louis XIV. Men got much more decorated, perhaps a reflection of the grandeur of Versailles. Their fashion dress preparation time equaled that of women at the time. During this period was the origination of the men's three-piece suit. Louis XIV and many men of the time practiced ballet. These suits reflected the stiff arm positions in ballet and were not easy to move in like suits today.
-CAVALIER:
With the Cavalier period, all of the bombaste and farthingales disappears. The ruff has fallen to make the collar, and the body relaxes and is treated in a more natural and soft way. This is quite a radical change from the stiff Elizabethan style. This "action/reaction"cycle occurs quite often over the course of fashion history.
Rubinesque woman= women gained about 20 pounds. The ideal woman is much fuller and fleshier. Rubens painted them. Early Baroque 1620-1660. Then the body gets corseted in again.
Cavalier portaits: Anthony Van Dyke paintings. Influenced other portrait artists. Amazing way of showing royalty in casual settings but still uptight and royal. Waistline goes up and everything relaxes. Collar falls- soft lace. Silk satins- less decorated with jewels.Tilting hat and big feathers.
Men: breeches longer, both have cavalier hat of velvet, baldric over shoulder, sword belt, soft leather boots, silk and lace.
Transitional looks: sometimes you could get a ruff collar with a more cavalier look.
With the Cavalier period, all of the bombaste and farthingales disappears. The ruff has fallen to make the collar, and the body relaxes and is treated in a more natural and soft way. This is quite a radical change from the stiff Elizabethan style. This "action/reaction"cycle occurs quite often over the course of fashion history.
Rubinesque woman= women gained about 20 pounds. The ideal woman is much fuller and fleshier. Rubens painted them. Early Baroque 1620-1660. Then the body gets corseted in again.
Cavalier portaits: Anthony Van Dyke paintings. Influenced other portrait artists. Amazing way of showing royalty in casual settings but still uptight and royal. Waistline goes up and everything relaxes. Collar falls- soft lace. Silk satins- less decorated with jewels.Tilting hat and big feathers.
Men: breeches longer, both have cavalier hat of velvet, baldric over shoulder, sword belt, soft leather boots, silk and lace.
Transitional looks: sometimes you could get a ruff collar with a more cavalier look.
-RESTORATION PERIOD:
Refers to the Restoration of Charles II to the throne of England. Many new styles were brought back from France. The Windsor Beauties at Hampton Court Palace is mostly a collection of famous Restoration Paintings. This period employs bright colors and extremely natural silhouettes which were quite revealing). Mantua= soft robe that resembles night gowns. About to fall off of them.
Refers to the Restoration of Charles II to the throne of England. Many new styles were brought back from France. The Windsor Beauties at Hampton Court Palace is mostly a collection of famous Restoration Paintings. This period employs bright colors and extremely natural silhouettes which were quite revealing). Mantua= soft robe that resembles night gowns. About to fall off of them.
-LATE BAROQUE PERIOD:
Late Baroque: 1680-1715. More dramatic and theatrical/operettic. From horizontal to vertical look. Fontange- Hair got tied up with fabric- Spanish looking wired up headpiece/ frame. Woman’s body is recorseted. Sleeves that came to elbow w/ lace coming off. Train behind them. Fans- there was a language to it. Face patches= Beauty marks. Fans to lips= hush. Right cheek= yes. Left=no. Nose= don’t trust.
Late Baroque: 1680-1715. More dramatic and theatrical/operettic. From horizontal to vertical look. Fontange- Hair got tied up with fabric- Spanish looking wired up headpiece/ frame. Woman’s body is recorseted. Sleeves that came to elbow w/ lace coming off. Train behind them. Fans- there was a language to it. Face patches= Beauty marks. Fans to lips= hush. Right cheek= yes. Left=no. Nose= don’t trust.
The cravat also first came into fashion during this period. It is simply linen fabric w/ lace at the end tied around the neck.
Red Heels
During the time of Louis XIV red heels were restricted to nobility. Louis XIV liked to be made taller and heels were not only theatrical, but they were considered regal.
Our class went to the spectacular Christian Louboutin shoe exhibit at the Design Museum in London. Louboutin uses red heels in all of his designs to similarly show their sophistication and grandeur.